Q.
I have a 1965 Mustang with a 289 engine, bored 30 over, and was wanting to know how to modify the oil supplied to mostly numbers 1, 2, 5, and 6 valves. I’ve heard that there is a modification that can improve the oil to the front of the engine.
A.
Let me start by apologizing for the delay in my response, as we felt the need to check our reply with several professional engine builders first.
Your request caught us a little off guard, as the Small Block (221/260/289/302/351 Windsor) Ford is actually known for its robust Main Bearing Priority oiling system. So we felt compelled to check with a few associates who regularly work on these engines. We contacted Clay Witt at Cottrell Racing engines, Jim Hall at TPIS, and Bob Wilson at RJ Restorations, just to see if there was something we were missing here.
All agreed the Small Block Ford is a solid engine with excellent oiling characteristics for most street and performance driving. Most agreed the only weak link was the oil pump drive rod, and recommended using an ARP drive rod to replace the stock unit. They all also recommended using a stock style oil pump for street use and to avoid using high-volume or high-pressure pumps.
It is true that the front cylinder rocker assemblies are the last in line in the oil system, but all agreed something has to be last, and under most street and performance driving, there is still ample oil delivered to the top end to do the job. Our collective next thought was: who published something contrary to this that made enthusiasts believe modifications were needed? Soon we discovered—a popular automotive TV show ran a segment on how to improve top end oiling by tapping into the main oil galley and running a copper line beneath the intake and up to the top end. To this, all I can say is, don’t believe everything you see on TV. While you may gain improved oiling to the front rockers, keep in mind that means something else is getting less oil, and I would rather sacrifice rocker oiling than lose any Main Bearing oiling.
Modifications like this have been around forever. Older Ford Y-Blocks were notorious for top end oiling problems and often remedied in the same manner, although the real problem was a narrow oil passage groove in the center of the camshaft. Jim Hall acknowledged that it would be a modification to consider if an engine was to be driven at high RPMs for extended periods of time, but he felt strongly that no modification was needed for street-driven performance cars.
Bottom line: Use a high-quality, USA-made ARP drive rod, and don’t mess with anything else, and expect thousands of miles of trouble-free driving.
I have a Sunbeam Tiger with the original Ford 260 v8. My engine is stroked to a 302. I would also recommend putting a baffle in the oil pan. It is an easy weld and will help with any oil consumption during quick starts.
I built up a 1963 260 V8 to put in a early '66 Ranchero. I went with 10:1 CR, slightly massaged heads, Edle brock intake,Holley carb and long tube headers. It all worked except the hydraulic lifers wouldn't pump up. Had a mechanic at the Ford dealership look it over and didn't have a solution. I finally ended up installing a 3/4 solid cam/lifters and it ran like a scalded cat! Years later I found out that the original camshaft had a slot in the rear provided an oil passage with each rotation. The 302 camshaft(s) I was playing with did not have that slot. I already knew to repace the oil pump drive with a heavy duty one. I think the old Ford small block is one of automotive's great engines.
The small blocks are nithiong like the old cammers,when you rebuilt one of them there was an oil galley at the rear of the block.if yu did not plug it the lower end would starve for oil and eventally there would go your rods and bang that meant your bearings would be spung and there went you motor. my buddy had 3 of thm in his racing craft boat and each engine was rebuilt at a Ford shop who did not know when you rebult them on those dual over haed cammers that plug needed to be put in the rear to keep oil in the lower end
In 1965 & 1966 drag raced a Mustang with said 289 hipo and never saw any oiling problems and that was shifting at 7500 .
I have a small block ford 351 bore out 30 over 356 it's been setting for a while what can I do to clean up the cylinders and I read about they oil problem can I use they ARP drive rod in my case? what is a good set of heads to use i'll be on the street lol.
<strong> good question that was but why do the push rods in the 1976 Ford 360 engine not have holes up through the push rods? the ones I took out were very pointed. I bought a new set and they also have no holes in them. is that also lack of oil to the rocker rail? thanks Alex
I have heard that the Cleveland and 351M/400 engines had oiling problems. would like to here back.
I have been working on SBFs since the mid sixties and still do in my restoration shop. The editor is correct, the SBF's priority main bearing oil system is one of the best, and the weakest link in the oil system if the oil pump drive rod which should be replaced with one from ARP if you have the motor open.
i have an original 1965 289 2+2 mustang it has 85 thousand original miles or so. and you are so correct do not mess with what works.street driven and maintenance regularly.c code car not k code.good information thank you
If you want to make sure the engine is well lubricated before starting it convert the oil system to a "dry sump" system. This system will circulate the oil throughout the engine before starting it. I have never installed this system on a engine but have read articles on this.