Evans Waterless Coolant Upgrade

Having been around cars for a long time, you know, you get to a point where you think you've seen everything and done everything, but you know, then a product like this Evan's Waterless Coolant comes along and makes you rethink some of the stuff you always thought to be the truth. Absolutely, Evans, I hadn't heard it until you brought it to my attention, and after doing some research, I'm a huge fan of the product, because for what I do restorations on classics, sixties and seventies cars, and the customers that I deal with are high-end customers that want longevity, durability and reliability of their product, an investment for the money that they put into the car. By far this is the best thing you could buy for your cooling system. Yeah, so it's also, it's not only a good solution for a long-term coolant because it will last a lifetime, but it also protects everything else that you've got into your car. So, you know, things like those aluminum parts are not going to corrode and you're not going to have to worry about the solution becoming acidic over time. Correct, Evans doesn't break down. It's a waterless product so there's no corrosives to break down and it's very friendly to all metals. And that's one of the benefits of it, is that it's a lifetime coolant. You can drain it out, put it right back in again. Cool. You can use it over and over and over and over again. One time install. The biggest process is to neutralize the cooling system, and that's to eliminate the coolant that's in the system now. So I've already drained the cooling system. So what we're going to do is we're going to go through and secure everything, and I'm going to add the flushing component to it, and we're going to run the car up to operating temperature, which takes about 10 minutes, and then we're going to drain the flushing agent out. So the prep fluid then actually encapsulates the water, any water remaining after the first drain. Right, so then it's going to put the block into a virgin condition to where we can add the coolant and get to our 3%. Yep. And we'll show how to flush the heater core out and safely do that. So, the easiest way to do that is to remove the heater hoses. And what I've done is turned the shop air down to 20 PSI. And the reason why I did that is because if I went into this car with 120 PSI of shop air, it'll just blow the heater core apart, Okay. And then I'll be putting a heater core in the AC- Then you will be going- Yeah, and I don't want to do that. So, what I'm going to do is I'll go past the water control valve on this and you'll know the inlet to the heater core, and then I'm going to disconnect the hose at the water pump, which is the outlet of the heater core into the water pump, and then I'm going to extend the hose into the bucket here. And then we're going to run 20 PSI of shop air through the heater core, and going to let it run for, oh four, five, six minutes. So what the flushing agent or component does is it helps capture the water that's in the cooling system now that we haven't been able to drain out or blow out, and then it's going to neutralize the water, bring it out with the flushing agent, so then it's going to put the block into a virgin condition to where we can add the coolant and get to our 3%. Well, I'm anxious to get started. Okay, let's get it on. Let's do it.